Advisor

Handmade - quality always prevails
Today, much of the suit is produced and manufactured by machine and industrially. For this reason, discerning customers today increasingly appreciate good old-fashioned craftsmanship - because they know that every item of clothing, every seam and every thread has been painstakingly made with great attention to detail. The craftsmanship makes the suit or the shirt something very special and individual. Handmade clothing only exists once and is therefore a unique fashion item. As no or very few machines are used, the production process takes a lot of time and requires special processing skills. An important advantage of handmade fashion is the long-lasting quality - everything is processed and controlled with the utmost precision through precise and lengthy work steps. The Neapolitan menswear we present is painstakingly handcrafted directly in Naples and finished in our Schöneberger tailor-made atelier adapted to your needs. Should you have special wishes we will be happy to realize them for you.

Handmade buttonholes
We order all our jackets with open sleeves from Italy. During the fitting, we measure your arm length and adjust it individually and perfectly for you. The jackets handmade by ISAIA and Gabo Napoli are delivered with handmade buttonholes on the front button placket. Following this tradition, we then adjust the sleeves in our bespoke atelier and make them lovingly by hand. The production of handmade buttonholes is very demanding and is only carried out by our best tailors. It takes a lot of experience and a good eye to perfect the fine art of "tailoring".

Step by step to the buttonhole
First of all, measurements are taken and the position of the first buttonhole is marked. Then define an approx. 12-15mm wide length, punch it out and cut it open. Be very careful when doing this as you must not damage the surrounding fabric. The next step is to make the first buttonhole stitch - now the actual buttonhole sewing begins. Stitch by stitch, several hundred times, the seam is sewn precisely and in great detail. This work step takes time and requires the finest craftsmanship. Depending on your taste, you can also give the buttonhole your own personal touch - the shape of the buttonhole (buttonhole eyes) or seam width can be customized. We would be happy to advise you in detail and show you some possibilities of where and how you could attach handmade buttonholes - perhaps to a pair of suit trousers, a coat or a vest. We look forward to your visit.

The collar - a tradition dating back over 700 years
The collar originated in the 13th century and has been a decorative element of clothing ever since. It was once attached to the old-fashioned wardrobe, then also to the shirt. The shape of the collar was influenced by political and ecclesiastical authorities and dress codes, and not least by the world of fashion and the respective lifestyle. The first collar was simply folded, stabilized with a thin wire and ironed. A few hundred years later, most people are no longer even familiar with the basic shapes of the modern collar: The button-down collar, the New Kent collar, the Global Kent collar, the stand-up collar or probably the best known, the shark collar. It should be noted that not all collars are the same. Depending on the situation, you should be aware of the visual and, above all, fashionable advantages and disadvantages of each collar type and adapt them to the occasion.

The shark collar
The collar ends are particularly spread apart from each other. Similar to a shark, the ends fold wide apart and resemble the shape of its fins. This modern collar goes perfectly with voluminous tie knots and makes them an eye-catcher.

The button-down collar
It is also known as the sporty collar. The small buttons on the shirt secure the collar points, preventing the collar ends from sticking out or creasing. Shirts with a button-down collar are primarily worn without a tie and fall into the category of sports or casual shirts. Its origins can be found in British polo, where riders were able to keep their collars in shape while riding fast and ideally wore them with the collar button open.

The New Kent collar
The most common collar in the world - which is why it is also known as the classic or standard collar. This collar shape is suitable for almost any occasion. The tie knot fits perfectly to the shirt. You can't go wrong with this fashionably elegant variant.

The global Kent collar
This modern collar shape is perfect for business outfits and any suit. The slightly shortened collar legs accentuate the classic tie and discreetly push the collar into the background. If you decide not to wear a tie, shirts with the global Kent collar can be worn casually with an open button.

The stand-up collar
This collar shape is something very special - because the stand-up collar has no or only short collar flaps and is worn up around the neck. It is also known as the Mao collar and is very popular in Asia. The stand-up collar reached its peak in the 19th century and is only making a comeback today among true aficionados. If you want to stand out and break away from the gray "crowd", this type of collar is an excellent alternative.